Need pics, drwings of Merkur depot rad installs

[milehighXR]

Mostly looking for plumbing diagrams/photos. I have been fighting a rich condition for a while now, and I am wondering if i have my shorty rad plumbed correctly. I need to add the vent hose to the coolant tank for sure, but beyond that it looks like I have everything right.

Other than running rich I have subpar heat. Heater core is stock and clear. This car used to burn me out with really good hot heat. Yesterday after driving around for 20-30mins at 55°F ambient I had only 115°F coming from center vent. I believe that should be higher. ECT was showing 172°F thru breakout box.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I used the shorty for years no issues. Never added the extra vent at the top of the rad, didn't need to. The level in the plastic coolant expansion tank was always lower than before. Mike told me to cap the one line at the coolant expansion tank, and not to relocate the thing. It always looked like I was low on coolant but it stayed consistent and didn't change. It's the older super heavy (bar and plate) style version like you see on intercoolers not the newer lighter version, but that shouldn't make much difference. No heater core present just the bypass circuit on those lines. It's an 89 but routed like 85-88. Setup stock like the factory, with hump hose going over the top of the valve cover and empty area in expansion tank as the high points. No weird air pockets causing any problems. If I did have a welded on nipple at the top of the radiator I would run that to the extra spot in the expansion tank.

[milehighXR]

I think mine is the heavy one. Shorty rad, stock style heater core that is clean, and Merkur depot AL expansion tank. I have only one extra fitting on the tank at the top where the cap goes. Was thinking I'd put the vent hose from rad to there.

My biggest issue, and maybe I just need a 208, or 212 t-stat, is the engine takes forever to get warm. Other cars of mine have heat(warm air form vents) in under 3 min of operation. The XR take 15min minimum to get warm air. It also seems as if the engine temp is dropping low enough to cause it to go back to open loop after, unless im never getting into closed loop to begin with.

[Ed Lijewski]

See if you get heat with some cardboard in front of the radiator.

YMMV

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

A failed, stuck open thermostat would act like this. Just a thought.

Cheers

[milehighXR]

Pulled t-stat to test it, and instantly saw that it is not failed open, but also is 2° colder than service manual says I should have. I will be replacing this and report back.

[Chesterfield]

Pulled t-stat to test it, and instantly saw that it is not failed open, but also is 2° colder than service manual says I should have. I will be replacing this and report back.

Yep. I think you narrowed it down to the thermostat, the long way around.

I have heard from several different forums, that the 2.3 thermostats are getting cheesy, and recommended to buy a "Motorcraft". I was recently in a hurry, and bought a Stant Thermostat, and was very disappointed to open the box and see a cheap t-stat labeled "made in china".

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I doubt a Motorcraft is out there anymore. Ford themselves don't make such parts; they have them made and with their brand name on the box. I believe that Gates was the OEM for that part as they make many parts for the US car makers.

They also make many Delco parts.

The Gates would be the best option, probably.

cheers