3d models for components of XR4ti and Scorpio

[brokencase]

John, I did not make the dome light model on Thingiverse. Someone else did.

What we are trying to do is build a 3d model library of no longer available stuff for Merkurs up on Thingiverse.com,
Here is what we have so far...

Scorpio steering firewall bushing (may be same for Sierra/Xr4ti)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4765300

Scorpio rear suspension buffer/rebound
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806986

Scorpio Trim Screw that holds cover over jack storage area...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3057837

Scorpio Fog Light Covers
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4833516

XR4ti Dome light
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4772578

The assumption is that, in the near future, 3d printing will become more ubiquitous and available to everyone.
Perhaps you already have a friend or relative who has a 3d printer. If not, don't fret, there are already 3d printing outfits that can 3d print something for you. For a while thingiverse.com was offering a printing service.

The main hurdle in recreating a part with a 3d printer is having the 3d CAD model of the part.
The actual 3d printing is now very trivial.

[john keefe]

Probably out of the dimension limit(s), but what about a snap-together frame for the missing Scorpio leaf catcher? You can use your own plastic-coated gutter screen, or some ABS honeycomb, etc, but it would be good to have something mimicking this rare item that looks more attractive than just gutter screening.

[Ed Lijewski]

Hah. Another trim ring er bezel niche market for you:

https://jalopnik.com/tons-of-chevrolet- ... 1792788989

https://jalopnik.com/chevy-silverado-su ... 1847338592

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I think that rear hatch lock "in plastic" could work, but I pull up pretty hard to lift the rear hatch on my XR. What if it was extra thick and reinforced? I don't know how strong the 3d printed plastic can be, could it be printed first and then made out of a strong abs or polymer via a mold?

[Ed Lijewski]

On my XR I use just forefinger and thumb on the lip extension to raise the hatch. Like lifting at most a 5 lb bag of sugar to raise it initially and then the hatch lifts do their job.

The lip extension is part of the thickest section as in this photo below.

Is yours also broken?

20210702_100535_copy_756x756.jpg (89.73 KiB) Viewed 10740 times

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

On my XR I use just forefinger and thumb on the lip extension to raise the hatch. Like lifting at most a 5 lb bag of sugar to raise it initially and then the hatch lifts do their job.

The lip extension is part of the thickest section as in this photo below.

Is yours also broken?

YMMV

Both locks were, then I swapped them out. I modded the 89 car so it couldn't open from the outside. I just climb through since there's no interior. Seems like metal fatigue from the constant clicking does them in, interesting idea about removing some material so they don't break. But I would worry the rest of the mechanism would hyper extend and then break anyway. Not a big fan of the central locking anyway so I just unplug that.

[john keefe]

That's the problem with easy-to-cast pot metal, esp. when you add in cutouts in the barrel which have sharp, 90 deg. angles (natural stress risers). Not very durable, so it's predictable they'll all eventually shear off in the barrel eventually as they typically do. If you've got an intact one to copy for a 3D model, I'd apply a jewelry file or tiny round file and radius those 90deg. inside corners first to get rid of the stress risers and not propagate the inherent flaw, which would help reduce the problem whatever the new material you're going to use.

I know its not the same thing, but for something like this I always thought the best solution would be to cast a replica in AL, brass or bronze, or at least the barrel part of it which fails (again, with radiussed angles). You're not using it all the time, so even a weaker metal would last comparatively. And, there's just something nice about a good, hefty piece of anodized bronze.

[Ed Lijewski]

The key cylinder moves from unlocked--key slot is straight up vertical, to locked-key slot is about 45*. Key cylinder returns to vertical so key can be removed.

The lever actuated by the solenoid mounts over a boss on the end of the key cylinder. Solenoid "throw" is fixed. Key cylinder travel is fixed at 45*. When fully "thrown" by the solenoid the lever and the key cylinder have the same fixed travel.

Possibly by design error in allowing "throw" space, possibly by wear in in the moving parts over time, the lever arm contacted the edge of the barrel cutout. Not by much, but enough over time to crack the barrel cutout at the edge.

A replacement cylinder barrel with slightly larger cutout would be protected from lever contact by the fixed internal travel of the key cylinder and thus the lever arm.

YMMV

[john keefe]

Ah... good analysis. Helps to have the culprit in hand to examine function, rather than just looking at the crack and grain of a broken one laying on the workbench. Still, always a sound design rule to radius all sharp inside corners, which in this case would add something to the longevity of the piece when it is subject to load from the offending lever arm.

[brokencase]

Adding to the want list:

Center support bearing rubber mount...

[ZaphodB]

Probably reaching and may get flak , but how about bi-wing spoiler plugs.

[brokencase]

How about weather-stripping?

I notice recently that a small section of weather-stripping fell off my Scorpio. See below

PXL_20210905_161251271.RESTORED.jpg (87.66 KiB) Viewed 10678 times

I sliced off a small piece so I could layout the cross-section in CAD. This is small stuff about 10mm high.
I scanned it on my image scanner at high resolution.

crosssec.jpg (8.52 KiB) Viewed 10678 times

OpenSCAD has the ability to extrude a 2d outline. The outline of the cross section can be input in various ways. It can take a 2d dxf file or it can take a set of declared coordinates that define the outline.

I have another program that can take the image and it will generate the vector outline in .DXF format. This works well but the extrusion process I will discuss later would take too long to render.

Instead it was better to draw out the cross section on graph paper and then enter a set of limited points to define the outline.

Here is the linear extrusion. Now all I have to do is print it in Polyurethane and I can replace that small missing section.

demoextlin.jpg (144.32 KiB) Viewed 10678 times

But what if we need a longer piece? The above method only allows you to 3d print a section as long as the bed on your 3d printer.

[brokencase]

Yeah, a longer section might be needed.

It turns out a gentleman named Douglas Peale wrote an OpenSCAD script that can perform spiral extrusions.

And now we end up with something like this...

demoscad.jpg (238.92 KiB) Viewed 10678 times

This extrusion takes a while to render. So it is best to use a minimal point outline for the cross sesction.

I don't think this method would be ideal for the thick foam weather-stripping that seals the doors and hatch back (maybe?), but it is good for this smaller "trim style" weather-stripping.

I will post the above model up on thingiverse as soon as I can print this out and test.

FWIW, the small 150mm linear section takes about 1 hour to print. The long spiral takes 24 hours to print.

[brokencase]

Probably reaching and may get flak , but how about bi-wing spoiler plugs.

Cylindrical Plugs are easy. There is a parametric model that can make any kind of plug/cap you like
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1943463

If you can post an image of the spoiler plug with the relevant dimensions I can then post a finished model on thingiverse.

[john keefe]

That's pretty impressive.