Fuel pump lock ring tool?

[Rainbow83]

Hello folks,

I'm currently working on getting an '88 XR4Ti back on the road after sitting for many years, and one issue I've encountered is that it doesn't get any fuel to the engine. As such, I figure it's probably worthwhile to replace the fuel pumps, fuel filter, and in-tank strainer. So, I have two questions related to that. Tonight I dropped the fuel tank, and found myself with a very, very rusty (at least on the outside) in-tank pump and lockring. The dealer manual says to use "Ford lock ring tool D84P-9275-A" to remove the lockring and the pump, and my Chilton manual just says to remove the lockring. Now, seeing as I don't have this tool on hand, and nor do I want to shell out on eBay to buy one, especially if it may not work because the lockring is simply too rusty, I'm wondering, are there other alternatives? What do you use? Any help is appreciated.

[Ed Lijewski]

Use a blunt end tool.or screwdriver and hammer tap the lock ring fingers alternately. It will loosen. Be sure to hammer tap only the lock ring fingers.

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Use a blunt end tool.or screwdriver and hammer tap the lock ring fingers alternately. It will loosen. Be sure to hammer tap only the lock ring fingers.

YMMV

Ya it should come out pretty easy. Turning counter clockwise since there is no reason for it to be reverse thread or anything. I would shop vac and wire brush it first so junk doesn't fall down in the tank. It is up to you how you want to set up your own car, but people will likely tell you to use one Walbro 255l in tank pump instead of the stock high pressure/low pressure setup.
https://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Fuel ... grade.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382673110984?_ ... %7Ciid%3A1

[Ed Lijewski]

FWIW the Walbro 255 running, being larger/stronger, is likely to transmit more sound into the cabin, especially as gas level in the tank declines--but even above that to my ears. So that's a trade-off to consider. I prefer not to hear the tank pump (the OE pump isn't noticeable until the gas level gets to ~below a 1/5th from full) .

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

FWIW the Walbro 255 running, being larger/stronger, is likely to transmit more sound into the cabin, especially as gas level in the tank declines--but even above that to my ears. So that's a trade-off to consider. I prefer not to hear the tank pump (the OE pump isn't noticeable until the gas level gets to ~below a 1/5th from full) .

YMMV

Don't you still hear the external pump anyway? It's right behind the drivers seat so it is closer than the in tank pump, and also running at full voltage without the resistor wire as the ground.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

This similar pump is less(69.99) and suppose to be less noisy right now at racers edge. https://treperformance.com/i-6324103-me ... -1989.html
Right up on MC2 website http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20050902b/index.html

[Ed Lijewski]

FWIW the Walbro 255 running, being larger/stronger, is likely to transmit more sound into the cabin, especially as gas level in the tank declines--but even above that to my ears. So that's a trade-off to consider. I prefer not to hear the tank pump (the OE pump isn't noticeable until the gas level gets to ~below a 1/5th from full) .

YMMV

Don't you still hear the external pump anyway? It's right behind the drivers seat so it is closer than the in tank pump, and also running at full voltage without the resistor wire as the ground.

The external pump is covered in foam insulation inside its firm-fitting mounting shield. Also those pumps have a thicker metal shell I think. I've not heard those pumps operating.

The intank pump connects directly to the tank, and tank snugged up to the trunk floor pan, so metal to metal to metal, with pump vibrations magnified through those connections.

YMMV

[Ed Lijewski]

Thanks for that link. (I also didn't know it was on MC2 website.) It confirms what I observed just from my experience; I hadn't heard/read of anyone else finding Walbro noise to be as objectionable as I found (but then some peeps are all about max power potential no matter the tradeoffs).

"TRE fuel pumps flow very similar to Walbro pumps but they DO NOT have the loud, annoying whine of Walbro pumps, and TREperformance fuel pumps are nearly silent when the vehicle is running. This makes our 255lph and 210lph pumps perfect for performance cars up to 600hp, but can also be used as stock replacement pumps."

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I am currently doing this Walbro upgrade on my 89 XR. Today I am using the old pumps to remove most of the fuel. When it gets a little warmer in NE Ohio I plan to drop the tank, paint or undercoat, then reinstall with new filters. I like the write ups on merkurencyclopedia and mc2. There are a couple things I will do differently. After seeing someone else's Walbro upgrade and looking inside various tanks at the pull a part. I don't want a glob of epoxy on the underside of the sending unit top ring. It seems like it will separate after awhile. Even that special stuff called seal all (that has a picture of a gas can on the container) didn't last very long when I used it on a small engine fuel tank. So if anyone has any better ideas to seal it let me know. Another thing I saw was the pump was too low, and the filter looked like it had been pressed against the bottom of the fuel tank and only drawing in fuel through the top. The mc2 picture shows the pump mounted up nice and high to prevent this. I hate the idea of using butt connectors and ring terminals. So I plan to solder the wires and use heat shrink over those connections. I have that special mouse tape made with hot peppers I plan to use on any wires exposed between the tank and body. Also the fuel pump relay has been modified so the pump gets a little extra voltage. Also a new Motorcraft fuel filter for the stock location and all new fuel line clips will be used. The fuel return line on lots of newer cars seems to return fuel to the bottom of the tank just inside the first or second slosh ring near the in tank filter. I think this would be quieter than shooting the fuel down into a half filled tank. Some other setups seem to aim the return directly at the side of the in tank pump. Seems like that would help cool the pump.

[Ed Lijewski]

Initial comments.

Epoxy: MC2 site is closed, and Merkurencyclopedia doesn't say anything about adding an epoxy layer. I can't visualize from your text where it would be applied nor why. ? ? To keep road dirt/crud from finding entry into the tank? Seems unnecessary as a still good original or new rubber gasket sufficiently seals the unit to the tank, assuming both unit and tank surfaces are nicely clean and straight. (If one dad to be anal about it, adding a caulk line of tubed silicone would be okay.)

Pump filter: The pump filter you fitted will NOT allow the unit to fit into the tank when the unit is properly aligned and set into the notches in the tank's opening, as then that submarine filter crushes against a tank baffle, the result being that 1/2 of the filter is closed off to feed the pump. Using that style filter I struggled to understand why the unit would not easily fit into the tank via the notches, eventually understanding/seeing why. No repositioning of that style filter avoids this issue. Any other filter that doesn't have ends extending that far out will work.

Fuel return spigot: I'd leave it as it is. I think it's placed high so that it doesn"t stir up any residue from the bottom of the tank to be picked up in the filter and prematurely clogging it. Aiming its flow onto the pump probably does no harm and might cool it a bit, but only marginally. I'd think tank pumps are designed for operations immersed fully or barely in gasoline without issues.

Pump motor depth: You can shorten the pump outlet hose enough so that the new pump (your Walbro) fits perfectly into the aluminum housing as did the OE pump.

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Initial comments.

Epoxy: MC2 site is closed, and Merkurencyclopedia doesn't say anything about adding an epoxy layer. I can't visualize from your text where it would be applied nor why. ? ? To keep road dirt/crud from finding entry into the tank?
YMMV

Step 39 on the MC2 how to page. The link above works even though they are not selling their parts anymore.

39.) If a grommet was not installed in step 26, apply a large glob of epoxy to the fuel pump wires and the drilled hole. What we are trying to accomplish here is to prevent the wiring from moving around the drilled hole, which could rub the wires bare and perhaps cause a spark. Allow epoxy to dry.

I guess they are saying you can use a grommet (in the picture it looks like a piece of hose) instead of epoxy. On the stock setup there is a plastic piece the wires pass through. The install I saw had the plastic drilled and the wires passed through that. The glob of epoxy that failed was used on both sides of that plastic piece to hold the wires in place and to seal it.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Also on the stock setup the pump sits higher in the bracket, and doesn't need a hose clamp like in the picture above.

[Ed Lijewski]

Re my initial comment on the pump filter in your picture.

I realize now that I mistook that filter in your photo for a filter with long equal length legs available as a replacement for the OE XR original ffilter.The two long equal length filter doesn't fit between the tank baffles directly under the pump access hole.

Your filter with unequal length legs likely will allow the pump unit to slide into the tank as a proper fit.

YMMV

[Rainbow83]

Thanks for all the info folks. Unfortunately, not too long after I first posted this thread, I had to be away from the car for a while and only now am I just getting back to working on it. Even more unfortunately, I'm having a lot of difficulty getting that damn lockring off. After lots of PB blaster and strategic application of a hammer and punch, all I've had much success in doing is damaging the four tabs on the lockring. Any advice? At this point I'm not against destroying the lockring to get it out, but I just don't want to damage the tank. If I can figure out how to post a pic on this forum, I'll add one to show what I'm dealing with. It's REAL rusty.

[Ed Lijewski]

Gotta be sure you hammer-tap only on the lock ring tab(s), not the "stop(s)" for the lock ring tabs.

YMMV