Power Door Locks

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello All,

On at least 6 of my previous vehicles I've adapted a keyless entry system to the existing power door lock system. Based on the Scorpio wiring diagram it appears that the lock solenoid assembly in the front left and right doors contains a switch assembly to reverse the polarity as required to lock or unlock the doors. This 'switching circuit' appears to be controlled by a linkage rod between the door lock assembly and the lock solenoid.

Hopefully one of you has had a lock solenoid assembly apart and can confirm the above. If this is the case I will need to add a small solenoid to mechanically manipulate the linkage at the drivers door lock assembly as opposed to wiring it into the power door lock circuits.

Looking forward to the feedback.

[brokencase]

I installed remote door lock, trunk, and remote start on my Scorpio.

I think I have just what you need. The wires for the power door locks activation are in the wire bundle behind the driver's left kick panel.
It is not easy to tap into these wires but I am sure you will manage. Plan for nice hot day crawling in there on your knees with the soldering iron! Pulling the yellow wire to ground locks the doors and pulling the white to ground unlocks. For the trunk I ran the wire from the remote unit through the firewall and into the socket of the trunk relay.

For the remote start feature you have to pull the cover off of the steering column to access the ignition switch.

Feel free to add additional questions to this thread regarding installation.

BTW, Avoid the "Bulldog" Brand remote systems. I had trouble with them sporadically activating. I am using a remote unit from Avital (Directed Electronics).

ScorpioRemote.jpg (54.26 KiB) Viewed 3506 times

[brokencase]

I guess I should add that although I connected everything up for the remote start feature. I have never used this.

I just wanted the power door locks!

The remote unit has this complicated programming setup for the remote start settings. I never took the time to go through it!
Now that you reminded me...I just might play around with that tomorrow!

Default setting might work. But I never even pressed the remote start button!

The remote trunk release works. But it would be better if I had really powerful hatchback spring struts that would lift the hatchback all the way open when I hit the button!

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello Brokencase,

Appreciate the detailed feedback. I had test leads on the white and yellow wires at the bottom of the A pillar connected to my DVM. The DVM would reverse polarity every time I locked or unlocked the car. Didn't make sense when I looked at the wiring diagram. The info in the troubleshooting manual didn't help with the explanation. Hence the post. Your comment about grounding either wire was a "you idiot" moment for me.

I'm partially through installing the keyless entry. I'll post the complete process as part of a separate post.

BTW, the keyless entry system I use is a very basic one (see URL below), but works a treat. Line of sight range is ~100' and the battery easily last 3 - 4 years. Installation is relatively straight forward bearing in mind the Chinese to English translation is a joke.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Central ... 202&sr=8-1

Hope it helps,

[brokencase]

The thing I've noticed is that remote kits are "highly transitory". A kit you buy 5 years ago no longer exist today, unless you find new old stock.
Seems like they are redesigning them every year, mostly to "modernize" the look and feel of key fobs.

Now with experience under my belt I thought about taking an ESP32 Arduino board and use it's blue tooth feature so I could unlock the doors/trunk with my cellphone.

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello Brokencase,

Fully agree. Fortunately the 'basic' one I highlighted in the link in my previous post has been around for quite a number of years. It shows up under various Chinese brand names but fortunately the pin out configuration remains relatively the same so it is easy to adapt. I have the one on the Scorpio working well, need to wait for a full test in a week or so. Waiting for the lower rad hose to arrive from Germany plus I'm currently wiring up a 'daytime running lights' circuit. Not mandatory here but a good safety feature.

Your ESP32 Arduino project concept sounds interesting and quite doable. A friend of mine is doing a lot with the Raspberry Pi, I'm amazed what he has fabricated. So many interesting microcontroller devices out there. I've been away from electronics and programming too long to get back into that. Please update the forum of your progress, maybe there is a small business venture in there to?

Let me know if you find a solution to the 'self opening hatch'. I haven't looked into how the 'open / close system' works on new cars, it must be via one or more high torque servo motors (windshield wiper motor)? Mind you my 1981 Mercedes 300SD (W126 chassis), used a pump in the trunk to lock (vacuum), or unlock (pressure), the door locks. Interesting system and quite reliable even after 34 years (sold it in 2015). Maybe a set of rams connected to a pump could lift the hatch with a controlled bleed to lower it and possibly some vacuum at the end to latch it? How about adapting a system from a convertible top? Food for thought.

Hope it helps.

[Ed Lijewski]

Gawd the Scorpio hatch is HEAVY!

Installed new struts last fall on my '88. Friday opened the hatch to remove an item and found the hatch heavier to lift than normal (even with new struts you have to get the hatch up about a foot or so for the struts to begin to take over and hold the lifting of it the rest of its arc). Was surprised to see that the upper end of the passenger side strut had come off of the pivot ball. I had wrestled with the spring steel keepers for both pivot ends on installing the new struts but after a few unsatisfactory attempts I thought I put all four properly in their locked position. So, that one keeper clearly wasn't fully locked on the pivot ball.

My point in relating this event is the weight of that hatch bore hugely in my mind as I was working with the keeper for the upper pivot. Honestly scared me as you have to work right at the inside point of the scissors formed by the hatch and the body.

I doubt I'd trust an aftermarket or equivalent hoist and close mechanism on it.

YMMV

[brokencase]

Fresh Air Inspector - Did you get your remote door locks to work?

One thing I wanted to add was to emphasize what is indicated in my earlier post...
You should use two external relays to ground he door lock/and unlock wires if your unit does not already include relays.

I suspect your unit may already incorporate these relays.

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello Brokencase,

Yes, keyless entry is working like a charm. Still have a few jobs to finish before putting the car on the road; daytime running lights, metric speedometer, rear bump stops and a front end alignment.

Plan to post a 'how to install a keyless entry system' as soon as I figure out how to include multiple pictures in a single post.

The keyless entry module I use in all my cars has 15A relays built in (see picture belw). If required, it is easy to wire in external relays if the 15A current rating is insufficient - had to do that on one of my cars a few years ago.

Keyless Entry.jpg (8.6 KiB) Viewed 3349 times

Hope it helps

[brokencase]

OK glad to hear.

You can only post 3 photos per post.

Just keep posting under this "Power Door Locks" topic. No need to start a new topic, since this also includes the document I posted regarding all the connections regarding remote installs.

Each post is limited to 3 pictures. If you have more pictures do it in multiple posts.
There may be a bandwidth limit of images per day... if that is the case do it over the course of a few days.

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello All,

Further to the previous posts above, below you will find the steps required to install a keyless entry module in your Scorpio. I prefer to use the 'basic' version of these systems (picture in a previous post above). This type is inexpensive and makes use of a 2 button key fob (lock and unlock). The only problem I have ever encountered in almost 10 years of using these is the lock and unlock image on the buttons begins to wear off after ~ 5 years.

Tools and Supplies Required;
1, wire stripper
2, 16 or 18 gauge wire (red, white, yellow and brown to align closely with the factory wiring)
3, 4mm (~1/8”) heat shrink tubing – optional *
4, soldering iron and solder – optional *
5, heat gun – optional *
6, crimp connectors (18 – 22 ga.) **
7, wire stripper / crimping tool
8, electrical tape
9, wire wrap
10, Phillips head screwdriver
11, tie wraps – optional
12, Patience!!!!

* required if you plan to solder and heat shrink your electrical connections, my preferred method.

** if you decide to use 3M Scotchlok or similar quick connectors, make sure to use the ones designed for the wire gauge you are using. For example, the red 3M Scotchlok is designed for 18 – 22 ga. wire, the blue for 14 – 18 ga.

The first challenge is to remove the plastic cap covering one of the screws holding the plastic inner sill cover in place (see picture below). It is tight fit, trying to slide a thin screwdriver down one side will result in the cap going to the bottom of the hole at which point you will be forced to pry the cap out resulting in a dented cap. It can be 'repaired' with a little gentle persuasion and a flat head screwdriver. Plan B is a little destructive, insert a small sheet metal screw in the end of the cap and pull the cap out.

IMG_001R.jpg (226.77 KiB) Viewed 3327 times

Once all the sill cover screws have been removed you will need to remove the left side kick panel. Under the kick panel you will find sound insulation held in place with a plastic push pin. Pull out the pin and carefully move the padding to one side. It will be fragile due to heat and age plus this pad is a single piece up to the bottom of the windshield – it can't easily be removed without damage. This will expose the wiring harness for the drivers door. Remove the tape covering the harness. See the blurry (apologies), picture below.

IMG_003R.jpg (376.16 KiB) Viewed 3327 times

To create more slack for the wiring harness it may be necessary to unplug the yellow connector. In the picture above, note the yellow (unlock signal), white (lock signal), and red (+12V from Fuse 10 [20A]), wires. Cut each wire and splice together all three wires including an appropriate length of yellow, white or red wire to connect to the corresponding wire of the keyless entry module (see connection table below picture). For example, the white wire going to the drivers door will have two white wires connected to it; the original white in the A pillar harness and the 'new' white wire to be connected to the white / black wire of the keyless entry module.

Note 1, I was experimenting with 'liquid electrical tape' on the solder connections – not as tidy a job as I had hoped.

Note 2 – I drilled a small hole in the A pillar and used a ring connector along with a sheet metal screw as a ground for the module. The screw head is visible in the picture.

IMG_005R.jpg (452.29 KiB) Viewed 3327 times

Most of these types of keyless entry systems use a similar style of module, multi-pin connector and colour coding for the wiring. Because the Scorpio uses a 'ground' signal to lock or unlock the doors the wiring connections for the module will be as follows;

Orange - no connection

White - Lock signal to yellow wire (A pillar)

Yellow - Ground to screw terminal (A pillar)

Orange / Black - no connection

White / Black - Unlock signal to white wire (A pillar)

Yellow / Black - Ground to screw terminal (A pillar)

Black - Ground to screw terminal (A pillar)

Red - +12V from red wire (A pillar)

Brown - Left turn signal (Black / White – turn signal harness) *

Brown - Right turn signal (Black / Green – turn signal harness) *

Green - no connection

Procedure continues in the next post.

[Fresh Air Inspector]

(continuing from the previous post)

* the turn signal connections are relatively easy to tap into via the wires to the turn signal switch itself. Remove the lower steering wheel cover (5 screws including the one hidden by the hood release handle), to expose the wire bundle coming from that switch. In the picture below you can see the black with white tracer wire (left turn signal), and black with green tracer wire (right turn signal). Cut each wire and splice together all three wires including an appropriate length of brown wire to connect to the brown wire of the keyless entry module. For example, the black with white tracer wire from the red connector will have two wires connected to it; the original black with white tracer in the harness and the 'new' brown wire to be connected to the brown of the keyless entry module.

IMG_017R.jpg (282.53 KiB) Viewed 3327 times

The +12V feed wire for the module has an inline fuse included. Up to you to make use of this. I opted not to as it is difficult to find a convenient location for this. Also, by splicing into the red wire you are tying into Fuse 10 (20A), for the power door lock circuit.

I prefer to install a keyless entry module as close to the windshield as possible. This places the antenna close to the windshield and will give you a line of sight key fob range of about 30m (100').

Remove the instrument cluster trim panel (4 screws). Now remove the dash pad. On the drivers side you will find 3 Phillips head screws (including 1 by the A pillar), and 3 clips. The latter can be found just above the top edge of the instrument cluster. On the passenger side, remove the wood trim panel to expose 2 more screws (some may have 2 clips instead). Three more screws near the passenger A pillar. Gently lift the dash pad up about 1 cm (3/8”) and pull towards you. I found it helpful to pop out the small grille on either end of the dash pad – use a small flat blade screwdriver or your finger nails, be gentle. This provides a solid place to hook your fingers into. For example, sit in the passenger seat, hook a couple of fingers in the hole, make sure the passenger door is open, hook a couple fingers of the left hand under the pad close to the HVAC panel. Give the pad a couple of firm jerks with a slight bias to the right hand. The right side of the dash pad should release with a disconcerting 'pop'. Repeat on the drivers side with the bias towards the left hand. The dash pad should now pop loose completely. When the time comes to reinstall the dash pad, smear a little grease on the two spring clips. This will make installation as well as future removal much easier.

Don't forget to tie wrap the module to something solid to ensure it won't create any noise while driving. The antenna has been slid inside the plastic A pillar trim for good reception. See picture below (dash pad removed for clarity);

IMG_018R.jpg (411.8 KiB) Viewed 3327 times

Important
Make sure you use wire wrap to protect all the wires you are adding to the dash area, especially the two running from the turn signal switch under the steering column. In addition to protecting the wires it looks more professional.

Operation;

Lock signal from Keyless Entry Module closes the internal relay grounding the yellow wire at the drivers A pillar behind kick panel for 0.5 seconds. This grounds the door lock solenoids to lock the vehicle, disable the hatch release button and simultaneously flash all 4 turn signals once.

Unlock signal from Keyless Entry Module closes the internal relay grounding the white wire at the drivers A pillar behind kick panel for 0.5 seconds. This grounds the door lock solenoids to unlock the vehicle, enable the hatch release button and simultaneously flash all 4 turn signals twice.

Hope it helps!