The Merkur Club of America Forums

Please follow up if you get anywhere with SSBC. I too looked for a banjo bolt with a bleeder but couldn't find anything in the correct thread pitch.

Is that a Mustang 5.0L AC compressor? It fit the XR bracket? I'm looking to add AC back to my XR. I don't have the original compressor, but I think I have my 5.0 compressor in a box somewhere.

foundnemo25 wrote:

17x8 or 17x9? What size tires?

timxr8 wrote:Are people interested in a jig? I can make one utilizing a spacer (probably around 1") Won't be able to do it until after I move, so probably April-May timeframe. It would be rented out. Have to think of how much, but spacers are common.

Where are you moving to?

merkurdriver wrote:

whitelx wrote:
Only problem I can see is in the rear. Isn't there an access hole in the flange?

There's 2 holes

I guess it would work up front, but the rear would need to be offset from the middle between the studs because obviously there's a pair of giant holes. oh well.

Saw this on the Fiesta ST forum. What do you guys think? It allows one to redrill for 4x100 or 4x114.3.

http://www.rottenleonard.com/Menu.html

Only problem I can see is in the rear. Isn't there an access hole in the flange?

I think your on the right track with yours. And you can get sae to m12 female such as this one. http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/thread-adaptor-18-x-27npt-m12-x-1-dps Thanks for the link. I need to get some of those for my proportioning valve before I switch rear brakes. I'm running T-bird rears...

mopman93 wrote:I'm not trying to sell these wheels right now but this is exactly what you're looking for. They don't rub.

http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/viewt ... 27&t=30843

love those wheels.

They will be able 25mm-35mm out from where they should be. 4" backspacing on a 7" wheel is 0mm offset. 25mm-35mm offset is acceptable for these cars.

I wouldn't use eccentrics in combination with solid bushings. You really do want those bushing axes in line if you've got the STAs solid-mounted to the beam. What have you found to be optimal for camber and toe in the rear? If I'm going to have to get shims made up for the carriers or slot/weld/ben...

Before you embark upon that effort, I suggest that you replace the diff mount, the stock mount isn't great when new and a sagging mount will affect the suspension. The new MC2 mount is a nice piece That was done a long time ago. Also have the powerflex beam bushing. The only OEM bushings left in th...

I'm looking to correct the camber and toe that my XR has in the rear and provide some amount of adjustability. I have seen the shims available from overseas, but I think some eccentric bolts at the pivots would be better as it would be more adjustment than a static shim at the carrier. My only conce...

I think you would be fine with a 17x7.5 et38. I run a 17x8 et38 now and it is a hair away from contacting the strut body up front. Actually, two of then are bent and were contacting, so i had to move them to the rear. A 17x7.5 et38 will have 6mm more clearance on the inside than I currently have, so...

millertime115 wrote:Hey guys, I'm down in Austin, TX. Just got my 87' back on the road after sitting for 10yrs. Still have a lot on the to do list, and it would be great to meet some other XR enthusiasts in the area.

Kyle

I'm in Austin as well.

I used the Wolo Bad Boy horn, sounds very euro. I like it. A lot better than stock.